US 12 and the Burr Trail

Lynne and I had to make another visit to a clinic this morning since we were both physically deteriorating and worse than we were when we went to the first clinic. Although we immediately felt better after our first clinic visit, that changed day by day. The doctor told us that our initial medication may have suppressed our immune system leading to our current bacterial infection or masked it for a while. She told me that I have junky lungs but she doesn’t think I have pneumonia. We have a new set of medications to hopefully fix us before our flight home.

We took our meds and embarked on the most anticipated part of the trip, traveling U.S. Highway 12 (Scenic Byway 12) considered one of the most spectacular drives in the United States. The road runs about 123 miles (198 km) across southern Utah, connecting US-89 near Panguitch to UT-24 near Torrey, linking Bryce Canyon National Park and Capitol Reef National Park.

Along the way, the highway passes through a remarkable range of landscapes and public lands. What makes this road special is the dramatic change in landscapes over a relatively short distance. In a single drive you may pass through:

• red-rock deserts and hoodoos
• slickrock canyons and slot canyons
• alpine forests and aspen groves
• high mountain plateaus
• historic ranching and pioneer communities

Because of this diversity, the route is often called “A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway,” revealing more than 200 million years of geologic and human history along the route. It is also a designated All-American Road which is the highest designation in the U.S. National Scenic Byways Program, administered by the Federal Highway Administration. It is considered one of the most remarkable drives in the nation.

To qualify, a road must:

• Have multiple exceptional qualities (scenic, natural, historic, cultural, archaeological, or recreational).
• Offer features so unique they can’t be found elsewhere in the country.
• Be a destination in itself, not just a route to somewhere else.

We turned off US 12 in Boulder to follow the Burr Trail through Long Canyon, a scenic backcountry route that winds from the edge of the Aquarius Plateau down through towering red-rock walls before crossing the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef National Park and continuing toward Bullfrog on Lake Powell. The road begins as pavement in Boulder, climbing gently through sagebrush flats before entering Long Canyon, where sheer sandstone cliffs rise hundreds of feet above the road and massive fallen boulders create one of the most dramatic passages along the route. After going through Long Canyon, we only drove a few more miles before returning and saw sweeping views of the canyon country which we found nearly impossible to photograph because of the breadth of the landscape.

On the return trip, we stopped in Escalante and grabbed a bite to eat at a place that was an outfitter, a state liquor store, and a restaurant all in one. It was lovely.