Ouray, Colorado

Regis:  After a long drive around yesterday we wanted to stay close and give Dart a break and let him stay in the RV. Linda wanted to go to a water fall in town so we grabbed the cameras and headed into town. We found the exit from the falls but it was a one-way road. Strike one. We turned around and headed up the mountain. We found the sign pointing the way with a parking lot that was full with empty ATV trailers. We found one spot, parked, and started to walk to the falls.

After a short walk we found ourselves at the top of the falls but could not see it. Strike two. What we did find was a very deep chasm, ranging about 4-7 meters wide and about 15 – 25 meters deep. There was equipment set up along the lip of the chasm to spray water. During winter they spay the sides of the chasm with water which then freezes to form a wall of ice. Now you have a place to do Ice Climbing. We found another sign pointing to the falls which appeared to be better for driving, not walking.

Chasm above Box Canon falls. (It is Canon and not Canyon)

Back to the car.  We drove back the way we walked and down a short dirt road to the real entrance to the falls. There looked to be a fair number of people there and you had to buy a ticket. Strike three. We drove through the lot and out the exit back to the RV.

Later that afternoon I went back to town in hopes of getting some pictures of the town. My plan was to walk around the “back” streets, away from the main street and see what there was. I took the first left off of main, which was dirt, and drove several blocks to the end. What I found was a parking lot for a short hike to a water fall. The fall in view was the last of seven that cascade down the mountain. Sometimes you just get lucky. This spot is also at an intersection with the Ouray perimeter trail which is a 6 mile loop around and above the town. I hiked alone for several hundred meters and took some pictures. While the trail was being maintained, it was not much bigger than a goat trail. In fact I did come across some goat or deer droppings.

Lowest of the several Cascade Falls.

Linda: Ouray, like many of the towns around the area, is an old mining town.  Tourism is now more lucrative than the mining.  I read there are over 600 miles of Jeep trails in the area.  Many of them pass over old Native American trails through these mountains.  Many of these are expert trails and we chose not to attempt them in our Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.  After looking at Google Earth, they looked tough but exciting.  Ninety percent of the vehicles attempting these trails appear to be Jeep Wranglers or other, unlicensed, off-road-vehicles like Razors.  

There are via ferrata trails in the area.  For these trails, steel cables and ladders are affixed to the rock so a non-expert can climb the mountain.  If you are a novice, they recommend a guide.  This area is a great place for outdoor adventures. 

Dart has not been eating properly and he went a whole day without food, so I hand fed him about 1/4 cup of food.  I got concerned enough that I changed our trip to head back to Florida with one day stops.  Fortunately, it looks as though we will miss the hurricane that’s currently hitting Florida.  Today, Dart acted like his old self again.  I can’t believe I was grateful to see him looking longingly at me for some people food.  All of our dogs were well trained not to do that, but after our last collie died and Dart was the only dog, I began to spoil him and even Regis has allowed him to get away with a lot.  After all, he now sleeps in the bed with us and Regis never allowed our other dogs on the bed.  I plan to take him to his regular vet when we get back to see if there is something going on that can be fixed.  But, it was great to see him acting well today.

We stopped in Albuquerque, New Mexico for our first night on the way back and a super bad storm whipped through the campground after we set up.  We suffered no ill consequences but we saw an easy-up tent ripped to shreds and the fence in the dog park was blown down.  

We arrived in Amarillo today.  We left Florida in May and went to Washington State and we are now making our way back to Florida and this is our first stop where the campground staff are not wearing masks.  One of the reasons we are primarily staying in KOA’s on the way back is because they appeared to have adopted a standard protocol that made us feel very comfortable in our travels.  In most campgrounds, even the outside staff have been wearing masks.  Here, no one is wearing masks and no guest is wearing a mask.  I am ready to get home. 

Ouray, Colorado

San Juan Skyway

View along the San Juan Skyway south of Ouray.

Today we drove on the 236 mile San Juan Skyway, mostly. It was a spectacular ride, but too long to do in one day. We prefer to take our time stopping along the way and this was too many miles to do that. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful ride and our favorite parts were Ouray to Silverton and the part before and after Telluride. We wound up veering off the paved path because of a bear. We both saw a bear running full speed through a meadow and turned around to see if we could see it again. We didn’t. We were ready for lunch and there was a sign for a picnic area along the West Dolores River. We never found that picnic area, but found a US Forest Service campground where we stopped for lunch. At this point, we could turn around and go back, or keep going forward hoping to hook back up with route 145. I had seen a sign that suggested we could hook back up with 145 but we did not have maps or cell phone service to validate. We decided to go for it in spite of the number of miles we had already covered.

I’m glad we did. The route was paved most of the way but eventually became a dirt road. It was in great condition for many miles before it wasn’t. At that point, it appeared we were within 4 miles or so of Route 145 so I held Dart on my lap while we bumped our way through the last stretch. It was beautiful, so we have no regrets taking that detour. I think it would be spectacular in the fall when the Aspen leaves change color.

Somewhere on this dirt road we took off of Route 145 along the West Dolores River.

As soon as we got back to the campsite, Dart immediately crawled under the RV and went to sleep. I don’t think he sleeps well while we are driving and now that he is older, he likes his sleep. He also loves his little “porch” under the RV. He gets a great 360 degree view of the campground and it is shady under there. Even when it is hot, he would rather be under the RV than anywhere else.

We have determined that we can bring the RV through the 3 mountain passes necessary to get to our next destination. To make things easier, Regis will drive the motorhome while I drive the Jeep and we will hook the Jeep back up for towing after we get past the third mountain pass.

Along the dirt road we detoured on off of Route 145.
The view of Route 145 as we were making our way back to it.
Route 145 near Telluride.


American mink (Neovison vison)

I nearly divorced Regis today. While preparing the motorhome for departure, he ran in and grabbed the camera and ran back out. I continued to prepare for departure and sometime later he returned and told me he got some pictures of mink. I have never seen a mink. I nearly killed him on the spot for not telling me, that’s why he grabbed the camera. I think he felt bad and he took me back out to see where they were and they were not there. I was plotting his demise. He is very fortunate that I eventually saw movement in the rocks and saw my first mink. Regis will live to see another day. Minks are carnivores and their fur is coated with oil to repel water. They have webbed feet to make it easier to swim. These little guys made me think of miniature otters. We saw otters in Washington State that were very comfortable in the water and on land. These little minks were as at ease in the water as they were scrambling through the rocks and boulders on the shore.

Mink with some tongue action.

We departed our campsite in Silt, Colorado and we are now camped near Ouray, Colorado. We are in the San Juan Mountains which were created a recent 35 million years ago from volcanic activity. They are the youngest mountains in the Rockies and they are stunning. The mountains are crazy beautiful and we haven’t even begun to explore.

I have been wanting to come to Ouray and Telluride since we purchased our first Jeep Wrangler in 1979. I had read this was the place to be for back country driving in a Jeep and we just never made it here. It took over 40 years to finally get here. We now have our third Jeep which is a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. It is made to go four-wheeling, but perhaps not the same as a Wrangler. Plus, it has leather seats. Regis calls it the leather seat four-wheelers. We have already demonstrated our ability to get stuck on this trip, so we better watch it.

As we were getting near our campground, there were lots of signs about low clearance and other road issues ahead. Our plan is to go south from here to Albuquerque. After arriving and checking out the situation, we need to go through a very hairy pass to go south. It is perhaps the worst mountain situation we have encountered with the motorhome. We have 4 inches of clearance through the tunnel and that’s before we start to go up these high mountains to the pass. We are going to do it in the car tomorrow to see if we can make it work in the motorhome. We are considering not towing the car and driving separately. We’ll see.

I drove into town to try to get some local maps (no go) and some Chardonnay (yes!). OMG the town nestled in the mountains is beautiful. There are numerous Jeep rental places. That’s what they say “Jeep rentals”. One of the places was offloading some Razor Off Road Vehicles and they were thoroughly muddy. We intend to hit some back country trails while we are here. Our Jeep is already dirty from being towed so what the heck. More mud won’t make too much of a difference.

This campground also has more tent campers than any place we have been in our travels since 2015. We see some tents now and then, but this place has lots of tents.

Shortly after arriving in our campground in Ouray, we saw this evening grosbeak (Coccothraustes vespertinus). This is my first evening grosbeak and I was thrilled to see it.
I saw this little Chipmunk (Neotamias minimus) in our campground in Silt, Colorado. He was in a natural area. I usually see chipmunks in areas where they are begging for food at rest stops or campgrounds. It was thrilling to see this little guy being a normal chipmunk.

Campground Wildlife

Immature bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) taking off from a tree and startling some European starlings (Sturnus vulgaris) on the left.

We spent time exploring wildlife management areas and state parks nearby over the last couple days, but we have seen the most wildlife in our campground. The KOA Glenwood West/Colorado River KOA is located in Silt, Colorado on the Colorado River. There are nature walking trails through some of the undeveloped habitat along the river. We have seen an abundance of wildlife in that habitat. I have seen deer regularly. I found a broad-tailed hummingbird nesting. Another camper told me he saw three mink one morning and there is a beaver nearby. We haven’t seen either yet, but we are on the lookout.

Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) doe with a chunk out of her ear.
Carolina grasshopper (Dissosteira carolina). When this grasshopper jumps, it spreads wings that look like a butterfly. I thought I was seeing butterflies, but when the insects landed, it was this grasshopper.
Eurasian collared-dove (Streptopelia decaocto) male on the left courting a female on the right.
Two American crows (Corvus brachyrhynchos) having a conversation.
Broad-tailed hummingbird (Selasphorus platycercus) sitting on a nest. I found this female on my first walk through the nature trails and we have been trying to photograph her since. She is high up in a tree.
I believe this is a type of meadowhawk dragonly but I am not sure which one.
Northern leopard frog (Rana pipiens). Most northern leopard frogs are green and there is a plains leopard frog that is often brown. Our guy was clearly outside the range of the plains leopard frog, so we are assuming it is a brown version of the northern leopard frog.
Immature bald eagle taking off with a European starling to the left.

Colorado National Monument

Colorado National Monument. The Colorado River runs through the valley below.

We left Wyoming and we are now camped along the Colorado River in Colorado. There are a couple bald eagles hanging out nearby and I saw a deer when I walked Dart as soon as we set up camp. We have a view of the mountains. It is a nice place to spend several days.

We visited the Colorado National Monument today and saw some spectacular scenery. It reminds me of Canyonlands National Park and the Moab, Utah area. There is lots of red color in the rocks, which is rust. This is a beautiful place to visit for the amazing rock formations and it is easy to get to. We were on paved roads the entire trip.

Balanced rock in Colorado National Monument.
Monument rock in Colorado National Monument.
Coke Ovens in Colorado National Monument.
Colorado National Monument.
Colorado National Monument.
Colorado National Monument.
Colorado National Monument.

Wyoming Scenic Backway

Kiosk at the beginning of the Scenic Backway we drove. Between the bullet holes and the weathering, it was impossible to read.

We have learned that scenic “backways” mean dirt roads. Dirt roads can be anywhere from high quality allowing high speed travel to so bad you can’t drive on it. There is everything in between. Today’s road was in pretty good shape. The road went from Sinclair, Wyoming (probably named after the company with the dinosaur logo since they have a big facility there) to Alcova, Wyoming. We did not drive the whole way. The road goes along the North Platte River part of the way and then goes by the Seminoe Reservoir. I thought Seminoe was a Native American word but it is an incorrect spelling of the fur trapper Cimenaux’s name. It was named after him.

Seminoe reservoir.

We saw several deer along or in the river and we saw many pronghorn today and a couple of mothers with twins. Importantly, after researching pronghorns and learning they don’t jump fences, we watched three pronghorns jump a fence today. In one case, the mother jumped the fence when she saw our car and the babies ran along the fence line until they finally ran between the barbed wire and caught up with mom. They run fast. I could not get my lens focused on them. We saw a variety of birds and our second coyote of the trip.

Pronghorn (Antilocapra americana) mother with two fawns.

We stopped for lunch at an area on the river between two reservoirs called the Miracle Mile. According to the Wyoming Fish Network, there were 4,469 fish over six inches per mile in this 5.5 mile stretch of river. By 2002, the number dropped to 2,000 fish per mile. There were less trout in 2002, but individually they weighed more – averaging 1.91 pounds. On the Wyoming Fish Network website they say “By 2018, the number of large rainbow trout (> 20 inches) wass (sic) as high as Game and Fish had ever measured.”

Miracle mile.

American white pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos) floating on the miracle mile.
This little bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis) lamb is beginning to grow some horns. We encountered a small herd of these when crossing over one of the mountains. We have seen a lot of bighorn sheep on this trip.
This black-billed magpie (Pica hudsonia) visited close by while we were eating lunch. It was hanging around with six other magpies, but none of the other ones came near us.

Wyoming Landscape

View of Wyoming from where we stopped for lunch. There are snow capped mountains on the horizon.

We have crossed Wyoming several times in our travels including: Sheridan to Cheyenne, Cody to Casper, and now Greybull to Rawlins. Wyoming is desolate. We see barbed wire fences and cows. On our Cody to Casper run a couple years ago we saw lots and lots of pronghorns. Today, we didn’t see many pronghorns. I am beginning to have a craving for green. I love Wyoming, so I am not whining. But, it is stark and barren through much of the state and I’m looking forward to moving on to Colorado. We have one more day here in Wyoming.

We drove through the Wind River Canyon on the way down and stopped at some picnic tables for a break. Regis and I took pictures of the barn swallows nesting in the shade coverings for the picnic tables. While doing so, Regis saw that the fisherman in the nearby stream caught a fish. The gentleman was happy to pose for a picture with his catch. I love the smile on his face. It looks like a nice trout and it would be better to have that for dinner than what’s on our menu.

Happy fisherman.
Barn swallow (Hirundo rustica) on its nest.

At one point driving through some high country, we stopped at the top for lunch. The transition from pavement to the dirt road to the overlook was not smooth and it rocked the motorhome more than usual. Every drawer popped open. The microwave popped open. Everything on the counters wound up on the floor except the cappuccino maker which fortunately landed on the sink. Hopefully, that means it still works. All removable pieces of the cappuccino maker wound up spread throughout the motorhome. Any water that was still in the cappuccino maker wound up all over the floor. There was more water than expected on the floor, so we are not quite sure why.

When we stopped for lunch, I turned on the generator so I could use the microwave to heat up lunch. That worked okay, but shortly after the generator stopped. Regis spent time trying to figure out what was wrong based on the error code. He got it working again, but thinks we might need a filter. It may be possible to pick that up in Rawlins.

I am desperate for better maps and should have been smart enough to order them ahead of time. I drove to the BLM office in Rawlins to see if I could get some good maps of Wyoming and Colorado. They were closed to public access. I wound up at Walmart and got some pretty decent maps, but not as detailed as I would like. Lesson learned. It’s possible to order great maps ahead of time and I failed to do that. I hope to do better for future trips.

Barn swallow on its nest.

Petroglyphs and Pictographs

Rock face at Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site.

We went to the Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site near Hyattville, Wyoming. It is a protected location with ready access to water that has more than 10,000 years of human history. There is a campground located on the site, so people are still camping there. There is a rock face with petroglyphs and pictographs. They were difficult to see, so it was helpful that there was a guide and interpretive signs pointing them out.

Rock face at Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site.
Rock face at Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site.

There were cliff swallows with active nests in the rock face, so Regis and I spent some time photographing and watching the swallows feed their young.

Cliff swallow (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota) nestling being fed by a parent.
The top cliff swallow nestling is hogging the entrance hole so the other nestling tried poking its head through another hole.
Cliff swallow nestlings and parents.

It was an incredibly beautiful day and we were a short distance from arriving at the site, when we were stopped by a cattle drive. There were cattle all over the road and folks on horses, off-road vehicles, and dogs were rounding up some of the strays and trying to get the group moving down the road. There were always a few cows that wanted to go in the wrong direction. After they got most of them out of the pasture and moving down the road to the next location, we spotted about 5 calves hoofing it down the road the wrong way. We had to stop and wait a while before we could proceed. It was very entertaining, never having seen something like it before. The following brief video not only shows the group of cows but you can hear the sounds they were making.

We are staying in Greybull and there is a train yard in town. When Regis was checking it out, he saw a sign that read “ATTENTION Remote Control Locomotives Operate In This Area. Cabs May Be Unoccupied.” He left his name and number incase of an opening.

Sign in Greybull, Wyoming.
Cliff swallow nestlings and parents.

Yellowtail WMA

Muskrat in Yellowtail Wildlife Habitat Management Area.

Today we went to the Yellowtail Wildlife Habitat Management Area to look for birds. We had a map and neither of us could figure out where we were on the map. Unbelievable. We went to a couple ponds and found very few birds. At one point, we saw some vegetation moving across the pond and eventually realized it was being pushed by a muskrat. Very cute. We saw a whole bunch of turkeys and lots and lots of insects.

The area was established to create waterfowl habitat. It has one of the largest old growth cottonwood forests in the west. We may have been there at the wrong time of year since we didn’t see much. It’s also possible we were not in the right locations to view the birds for this time of year. We clearly need a better map.

Early evening, we drove back up into the Bighorn Mountains to look for wildlife. We didn’t see much. It may not have been late enough in the day. We saw lots of cattle and sheep. We got the following picture from one of the overlooks. It looks out over the Bighorn Basin. It was very, very hazy.

Bighorn basin where you can see the fold in the earth’s crust.

On the way back, we got this picture of Sheep Mountain. Sheep Mountain is an anticline which is an upward fold in the earth’s crust. It was created during the Laramide mountain building event 70 to 50 million years ago.

Sheep Mountain near Greybull, Wyoming.

Pronghorn Fawn

Pronghorns (Antilocapra americana)

On our way back from our early morning moose adventure, we stopped at the Red Gulch Dinosaur Track Site to see some dinosaur tracks. To get to the site, you travel down the Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway which is a dirt road for about 5 miles. The road continues on after the site for another 27 miles or so through undeveloped country.

The site had picnic tables and pit toilets and some signs to explain the history and the tracks. We enjoyed a picnic lunch before viewing the site. We were the only ones there until shortly before we left when another car drove up. I had a terrible time figuring which indentations were the dinosaur tracks. Regis had no trouble. It’s a good thing I didn’t try to become a paleontologist.

Dinosaur footprint.
I believe this is a sagebrush lizard (Sceloporus graciosus graciosus) we saw hanging around the dinosaur tracks.

Rather than returning home the way we came, we opted to drive the rest of the Red Gulch Road through all that undeveloped land. We did not see a single human made structure along the way except for fencing and a few rock cairns. It was a beautiful drive, but the road was very rutted from someone who had driven it in a heavy vehicle while the roads were wet. Those huge ruts made for a bumpy road, but it wasn’t too bad. The scenery was worth it.

Not too long after we left the dinosaur tracks, we found two adult pronghorns with a baby. I have only seen baby pronghorns from so far away you need binoculars to figure out what you are looking at. This was a special treat to see this little one reasonably close. The pronghorns kept their distance, but did not run away. It gave us a great opportunity to watch them for a while and see the little one nurse.

Pronghorn baby nursing.

Pronghorns are the fastest animals in North America and can run 65 miles per hour. They have very large eyes and can see 320 degrees around. They are not good jumpers and will climb under a fence instead of through it. The outer material on their antlers are shed every year and regrown. Both sexes have horns but females have smaller horns that never exceed their ear length. The other adult in the group we saw was a female.

Pronghorn parade.

We saw a rabbit and a variety of birds, but not other wildlife along the way. The scenery was amazing and the pictures I got don’t show how spectacular it looked.

Scenic view from the Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway. The Bighorn Mountains are in the distance.
Scenic view from the Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway.
Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway
Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway